week 8 ~ coastal

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what is eustatic/global sea level?

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1

what is eustatic/global sea level?

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2

what is local sea level?

relative elevation between average sea surface coastline and coastline of land mass

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3

what are waves?

undulations formed by wind blowing over surface of water

transfer of energy from wind to water

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4

what type of orbit do deep water waves have?

circular

moving up and down not acc towards the coast

<p>circular</p><p>moving up and down not acc towards the coast</p>
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5

what type of orbit do intermediate water waves have?

elliptical

<p>elliptical</p>
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6

what type of orbit do shallow water waves have?

linear

<p>linear</p>
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7

what is wave refraction?

change in wave speed due to diff water depths

slows down in shallow water and bends towards coast

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8

what is wave diffraction?

waves bend around obstacles and through narrow openings

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9

what are the wave zones?

surf → waves breaking

swash → waves move up the beach

undertow → waves retreat

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10

what are the types of breaks?

spilling → flat surface

plunging → deep to shallow

collapsing

surging → surge up steep beach

<p>spilling → flat surface</p><p>plunging → deep to shallow</p><p>collapsing</p><p>surging → surge up steep beach</p>
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11

which wave types are constructive?

surging

spilling

collapsing

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12

which wave types are destructive?

plunging

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13

what are longshore currents?

SA;HKASHFAKJSLFHDKSA

occur in shallow water

have wind blowing parallel to the coastline

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14

what are nearshore currents?

ALSJDHF;EHSLKAHSFKJASHD

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15

what are tides

KJSHDFKAHWH

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16

what are storm induced surges and seiches?

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17
<p>what is this?</p>

what is this?

sloping shore platform

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18
<p>what is this?</p>

what is this?

horizontal shore platform → diff geological layers

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19
<p>what is this?</p>

what is this?

plunging cliff

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20
<p>what are these?</p>

what are these?

cliff based notches → eroded bottom making a hanging cliff

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21
<p>what are these?</p>

what are these?

marine potholes

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22
<p>what are these?</p>

what are these?

sea caves → weaker area eroded

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23
<p>what are these?</p>

what are these?

arches

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24
<p>what are these?</p>

what are these?

stacks → resiliant material left over

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25
<p>what are these?</p>

what are these?

stumps

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26
<p>what is this?</p>

what is this?

tombolo → spit connecting to island

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27
<p>what is this?</p>

what is this?

spit

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28
<p>what are these?</p>

what are these?

sandbars → accumulation of sand

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29
<p>what are these?</p>

what are these?

barrier islands → along the coast, more permanent

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30
<p>what is this?</p>

what is this?

lagoon → enclosed area of the ocean

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31
<p>what is this?</p>

what is this?

atoll

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32
<p>what is this?</p>

what is this?

tidal flats → settling of clay and silt material

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33
<p>what is this?</p>

what is this?

salt marsh

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34
<p>what is this?</p>

what is this?

mangal

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35

how are salt marshes and mangals formed?

when salt tolerant vegetation colonizes tidal flats

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